← Autodidact Archive · Original Dissent · All Old Right
Thread ID: 13991 | Posts: 21 | Started: 2004-05-31
2004-05-31 23:23 | User Profile
Does brand name make all that much difference? I was going with NAPA. The lowest price is $128(somethig about 12 volt wet) and the next to the lowest is $180(Beck Arnley). That's including solenoid. I was wondering if the lowest was total crap or what. 3 year warranty. Thanks. Or, to reflect the times, should I say muchos gracias?
2004-05-31 23:39 | User Profile
I'd be interested to know who drives a pickup truck. Ponce is a known 75mpg Cuban trucker :alucard:
Who else? Tex? :cowboy:
2004-06-01 06:33 | User Profile
[QUOTE=madrussian]I'd be interested to know who drives a pickup truck. Ponce is a known 75mpg Cuban trucker :alucard:
Who else? Tex? :cowboy:[/QUOTE]
My pride and joy -- Toyota Tundra TRD Extended Cab. I-Force V-8, 16 mpg. Oh yeah. :thumbsup:
AOR, go with the cheaper starter. Probably rebuilt, but in my opinion you're only paying for the name for the more expensive one. I put a rebuilt starter on my old truck and never had any more problems with it. 'Til the clutch went out, that is. As a young man, there's no better way to learn mechanickin' than to drive some old pickup and not have money to pay a real mechanic for repairs. If it don't run, you don't go.
2004-06-01 07:57 | User Profile
All Old Right,
I would agree with Texas Dissident. Have you look at on-line sites. I have found lots of car parts sites with google.
Make sue you know for sue which part is not working. If the solenoid not working it will not start as well, but I think it is the starter the goes wong most often. Hey, you try rebuilding the starter yourself even if you want to save more money, I not sue how hard that is to do.
I am trying to keep my old Car going. I thought I was going to put out $300 for a part. But I found a leaking hose and it cost under $20 to fix it.
Good Luck, with your Truck.
2004-06-01 10:26 | User Profile
I guess I'm trusting NAPA not to sell complete junk. The old one has 90,000 miles on it, and is over 10 years old...I figure replacing it all at this point might be best. The solenoid is $15, and I don't want to have to worry with it again for a while. These days, I don't know how cost effective rebuilding your own is, unless you run a garage and get parts at a discount. I could hardly do it for $128, including the value of time, etc.
Nice truck, TD. Thanks to all for the assist and input.
2004-06-01 11:16 | User Profile
[QUOTE=All Old Right]I guess I'm trusting NAPA not to sell complete junk. The old one has 90,000 miles on it, and is over 10 years old...I figure replacing it all at this point might be best. The solenoid is $15, and I don't want to have to worry with it again for a while. These days, I don't know how cost effective rebuilding your own is, unless you run a garage and get parts at a discount. I could hardly do it for $128, including the value of time, etc.
Nice truck, TD. Thanks to all for the assist and input.[/QUOTE]
I absolutely agree with Tex, The rebuilt model will be fine. Just make sure you properly torque the mounting bolts. IMO, most starters fail because the bolts back out which shifts stress to interals like bearings. ThreadLok and what not are worth a look especially if your suspension is worn out.
2004-06-01 12:21 | User Profile
[QUOTE=madrussian]I'd be interested to know who drives a pickup truck. Ponce is a known 75mpg Cuban trucker :alucard:
Who else? Tex? :cowboy:[/QUOTE] I have a Chevy Silverado Longbed, which I love, which also gets terrible gas mileage. It's not that fancy, but I own it free and clear, so that's something.
2004-06-02 01:28 | User Profile
Good idea on the thread lock.
Now for the real question, who doesn't have AC in the truck?
2004-06-02 01:33 | User Profile
[QUOTE=Texas Dissident]My pride and joy -- Toyota Tundra TRD Extended Cab. I-Force V-8, 16 mpg. Oh yeah. :thumbsup: [/QUOTE] What happened to buying American?
2004-06-02 01:36 | User Profile
[QUOTE=Quantrill]I have a Chevy Silverado Longbed, which I love, which also gets terrible gas mileage. It's not that fancy, but I own it free and clear, so that's something.[/QUOTE] I am starting to see a correllation here.
2004-06-02 03:07 | User Profile
[QUOTE=madrussian]What happened to buying American?[/QUOTE]
I believe in it. The IForce engine and Tundra was wholly built in Indiana and Kentucky. :thumbsup:
Fords and Chevys are almost entirely built in Mexico and Canada these days. Thank NAFTA. :thumbd: Actually, I had a Windstar for the wife and kids, but had to get rid of it. Piece of junk, aluminum heads. Got 'em an Avalon.
2004-06-02 03:29 | User Profile
Over here, you can see nothing but the Japanese and European brands.
2004-06-02 21:01 | User Profile
I heard someone explain how foreign factories over here were still a drain on our economy. I can't remember, but the bottom line was the US was in trouble no matter where the car was built. It was some outsourcing discussion I was listening to on the radio. No, it wasn't that sell out, Rush, so I think it was credible info.
But it's like voting GOP, or not. If they can't offer the best, they shouldn't be surprised when people look elsewhere, or blame it on the people.
2004-06-02 22:44 | User Profile
[QUOTE=Texas Dissident]My pride and joy -- Toyota Tundra TRD Extended Cab. I-Force V-8, 16 mpg. Oh yeah. :thumbsup:
[/QUOTE] I've got 97,000+ miles on my Tundra V8 4x4. I'm still not used to the steering.
It's sorta made in USA, but there are assemblies from Mexico and Japan. When my Suburban wore out, I went to the Chevy dealer expecting to find an American Chevy with a tried and true 350 engine.....hah!
The Tundra 4 wheel drive is great. Best ground clearance and ride. I've used it in the West Texas desert and used it for an elk hunting jeep in Montana. Hard to beat. Driven over rocks bigger than my head, thru 10" of snow on steep logging roads and started it in sub zero weather. Too bad they don't make a diesel.
2004-06-02 23:30 | User Profile
Think it'll stay OK if I use the original bolts and lock washers with thread lock?
2004-06-02 23:42 | User Profile
[QUOTE=All Old Right]Think it'll stay OK if I use the original bolts and lock washers with thread lock?[/QUOTE] Don't use any threadlocker, just tighten good and go back and forth to all the bolts when tightening. Don't tighten anything until all started.
2004-06-03 01:26 | User Profile
Augh! That starter doesn't have the same clip connection as the original. I'm not going to cut the wire and resplice if I don't have to. We'll see if this guy gives me a hard time on a return or exchange. I didn't install anything.
2004-06-03 18:44 | User Profile
Car repairs are fun, aren't they? :angry:
That's what I like about the real old American iron, it breaks some, sure, but it's cheap and easy to fix when it does. Master cyl. go out on a 2000 Dodge 1500? That'll be $215 for a rebuilt, with exchange. Alternator? That's $180-250 there. Water pump'll run you at least $100. Starter's in the $150-200 range. All that stuff takes hours and hours and special tools seemingly out the wazoo.
Old Chevy smallblock. Master cyl's about $17.99 and takes an hour to put in. Alternator's $30, twice that if you get the one that cranks out extra amps and installs in under 5 minutes. Water pump's about $20, tops and takes about an hour, unless the bolts have corroded in place. Starter's maybe $50-60 or so and takes maybe half an hour to put in.
Of course, you pay for it all with a whopping 10-12 MPG (downhill with a tailwind, that is). :thumbsup:
2004-06-03 19:06 | User Profile
Ponce can teach you how to get 75mpg with a small egine on the truck bed :thumbsup:
2004-06-05 02:21 | User Profile
MadScienceType,
You are Right. Old American cars from the 60's 70's are cheap to fix than the new one's. It is odd when parts for a 30 year old car are cheaper than parts for a new one.
2004-06-05 02:28 | User Profile
Large inventories for older parts (and they must be cheaper to build).